| DOGS
– The First 12 Weeks & Vaccination
AGE:
Most pups are homed at around
7-8 weeks old
DIET: Try not to change the
diet when the pup is homed initially. Find out
what the breeder fed and continue to feed this,
as sudden changes in diet can cause stomach
upsets. If you do have to change the food, do
it gradually over 7-10 days, introducing more
of the new food each day.
The “big name” brands of puppy food
contain all the essential vitamins and minerals
for a growing pup, so these are ideal for your
new pup to eat. Dry or tinned foods are available,
but always make sure it is a complete diet (not
just a mixer) and it is specifically for puppies
– adult food may not provide all the nutrients
for the growing pup. Clean water must be freely
available at all times. Milk is unnecessary
in a weaned pup and may cause diarrhoea.
Do not get into the habit of feeding titbits
from your table, or extra snacks between meals
as this can lead to weight problems or a begging
dog.
As pups have small stomachs, they need fed little
and often – 4 times a day. Most puppy
foods have instructions of how much to feed,
according to weight – remember these are
guidelines only, each pup is different.
FEEDING DISCIPLINE: This must
be started as soon as you get your puppy. Call
the pup to his meal, using the same signal all
the time, and then make him sit for a moment.
He must only start to eat when told to, not
before. It might be necessary to hold him for
the first few times, but he will soon learn.
Occasionally, take the food away while he is
eating, so that he does not learn to be possessive.
IDENTIFICATION: Put a collar
on the pup within the first few days with an
address tag. The collar should be snug but not
tight. The pup will object initially, but will
soon get used to it. A more reliable means of
identification is a microchip – about
the size of a grain of rice – which your
vet can insert under the skin by injection at
the time of vaccination. Your pet will then
have a unique number which is held on a central
database. If your pet strays, dog wardens and
rescue centres can scan for microchips and find
the owners very quickly.
TRAINING: Dogs are pack animals
and have a strict social order. From the moment
you get your pup he must know his position in
the family – this must be lower in the
“pack” than any of the humans. This
is not unfair to the dog – he has pack
leaders who will protect and instruct him, so
he will feel safe and reassured. An uncontrolled
dog is confused. If he is allowed to do something,
then told off for doing the same thing, he will
become stressed and this can lead to aggression.
If the pack leader’s role is not established
early on, he will try to become dominant himself,
by growling and fighting, as he would in the
wild. Rules and commands must be consistent,
and everyone in the family should be giving
the same instructions to the pup.
Decide which parts of the house are no-go areas,
and where he will sleep, then stick to these
decisions. A pup will cry for the first few
nights after he is parted from his litter, but
do not comfort him or he will feel rewarded
and will cry every night. Instead, give him
a cosy, secure bed, a good meal before bedtime,
and ignore the cries – he will learn that
it is unproductive. Do not take him to your
bed to comfort him, or he will learn to expect
this.
Teach him to sit on command from an early age
– this is the most useful command he can
be taught, and reinforces your position as top
dog.
Teach him to walk on a lead. You can use food
as an incentive to stop him dragging behind
you. For instance, put his dinner at one end
of the room and then walk him towards it on
the lead from the other.
Toilet training starts early – take him
out after every meal and stay with him until
something happens, then praise him. If he makes
a mess indoors, clean it up but do not say anything
to the dog – praise is more useful than
punishment.
Groom him every day and get him used to being
handled all over – eyes, ears, inside
the mouth, feet, tummy and tail. This will mean
you are aware more quickly of any abnormalities,
and your dog will be an easier patient if he
needs pills, or any treatment in later life.
Get him used to travelling in the car –
a 5 minute journey every day will lead to familiarity
with the car, and a dog that lies quietly.
Once he is fully vaccinated, puppy training
classes are very useful for teaching discipline
and for socialising your pup. Socialisation
is very important to your pup’s development
and your dog will learn not to become very excited
or noisy when encountering other dogs.
VETERINARY
CARE:
VACCINATION – Dogs are
living much longer now, due in no small way
to vaccination. Fifty years ago, diseases like
distemper killed half the puppies before their
first birthday. No vaccine in animals or man
is 100% effective, but today’s dog vaccines
are extremely good, and failures are rare.
Injections must be given to a healthy animal
at the right age, and the pup should be kept
away from infection until the vaccine has had
time to work. The vaccine stimulates the pup
to make antibodies (build up immunity) against
the disease. This immunity is long lasting,
but wears out over time – this is why
boosters are needed. Newborn animals receive
antibodies through their mother’s milk
which protect them in the early weeks (but bottle-fed
young do not, making them more susceptible to
infection). However, this can make timing of
vaccination difficult, as maternal antibodies
will interfere with the development of immunity
to vaccines. Pups usually stop suckling by 6
weeks old, so most of the maternal antibodies
are exhausted by 8-10 weeks. Correct vaccination
protocols vary with the vaccine used, the prevalence
of infection in the local area, and the history
of the bitch and kennels. Your best advice will
be from the vet. Vaccination aims to prevent
distemper, leptospirosis, infectious hepatitis,
parainfluenza virus and parvovirus.
Usually, pups need a course of 2 injections,
2-4 weeks apart, starting from 8-10 weeks old,
but this does vary. They will need to be kept
away from unvaccinated dogs and places where
unvaccinated dogs might have been eg pavements
and parks, until 1-2 weeks after their last
injection.
Talk to your vet about vaccinations as soon
as, if not before, you first get your pup or
new dog.
WORMING
- Pups can carry roundworms acquired
from their mothers. As well as causing ill health
in the pup, they can occasionally infect children.
Puppies can be wormed from 2 weeks old and should
be wormed regularly thereafter. Your vet can
advise you on a suitable worming regime.
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