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DOGS – The First 12 Weeks & Vaccination

AGE:
Most pups are homed at around 7-8 weeks old

DIET: Try not to change the diet when the pup is homed initially. Find out what the breeder fed and continue to feed this, as sudden changes in diet can cause stomach upsets. If you do have to change the food, do it gradually over 7-10 days, introducing more of the new food each day.
The “big name” brands of puppy food contain all the essential vitamins and minerals for a growing pup, so these are ideal for your new pup to eat. Dry or tinned foods are available, but always make sure it is a complete diet (not just a mixer) and it is specifically for puppies – adult food may not provide all the nutrients for the growing pup. Clean water must be freely available at all times. Milk is unnecessary in a weaned pup and may cause diarrhoea.
Do not get into the habit of feeding titbits from your table, or extra snacks between meals as this can lead to weight problems or a begging dog.
As pups have small stomachs, they need fed little and often – 4 times a day. Most puppy foods have instructions of how much to feed, according to weight – remember these are guidelines only, each pup is different.

FEEDING DISCIPLINE: This must be started as soon as you get your puppy. Call the pup to his meal, using the same signal all the time, and then make him sit for a moment. He must only start to eat when told to, not before. It might be necessary to hold him for the first few times, but he will soon learn. Occasionally, take the food away while he is eating, so that he does not learn to be possessive.

IDENTIFICATION: Put a collar on the pup within the first few days with an address tag. The collar should be snug but not tight. The pup will object initially, but will soon get used to it. A more reliable means of identification is a microchip – about the size of a grain of rice – which your vet can insert under the skin by injection at the time of vaccination. Your pet will then have a unique number which is held on a central database. If your pet strays, dog wardens and rescue centres can scan for microchips and find the owners very quickly.

TRAINING: Dogs are pack animals and have a strict social order. From the moment you get your pup he must know his position in the family – this must be lower in the “pack” than any of the humans. This is not unfair to the dog – he has pack leaders who will protect and instruct him, so he will feel safe and reassured. An uncontrolled dog is confused. If he is allowed to do something, then told off for doing the same thing, he will become stressed and this can lead to aggression. If the pack leader’s role is not established early on, he will try to become dominant himself, by growling and fighting, as he would in the wild. Rules and commands must be consistent, and everyone in the family should be giving the same instructions to the pup.
Decide which parts of the house are no-go areas, and where he will sleep, then stick to these decisions. A pup will cry for the first few nights after he is parted from his litter, but do not comfort him or he will feel rewarded and will cry every night. Instead, give him a cosy, secure bed, a good meal before bedtime, and ignore the cries – he will learn that it is unproductive. Do not take him to your bed to comfort him, or he will learn to expect this.
Teach him to sit on command from an early age – this is the most useful command he can be taught, and reinforces your position as top dog.
Teach him to walk on a lead. You can use food as an incentive to stop him dragging behind you. For instance, put his dinner at one end of the room and then walk him towards it on the lead from the other.
Toilet training starts early – take him out after every meal and stay with him until something happens, then praise him. If he makes a mess indoors, clean it up but do not say anything to the dog – praise is more useful than punishment.
Groom him every day and get him used to being handled all over – eyes, ears, inside the mouth, feet, tummy and tail. This will mean you are aware more quickly of any abnormalities, and your dog will be an easier patient if he needs pills, or any treatment in later life.
Get him used to travelling in the car – a 5 minute journey every day will lead to familiarity with the car, and a dog that lies quietly.
Once he is fully vaccinated, puppy training classes are very useful for teaching discipline and for socialising your pup. Socialisation is very important to your pup’s development and your dog will learn not to become very excited or noisy when encountering other dogs.

VETERINARY CARE:
VACCINATION – Dogs are living much longer now, due in no small way to vaccination. Fifty years ago, diseases like distemper killed half the puppies before their first birthday. No vaccine in animals or man is 100% effective, but today’s dog vaccines are extremely good, and failures are rare.
Injections must be given to a healthy animal at the right age, and the pup should be kept away from infection until the vaccine has had time to work. The vaccine stimulates the pup to make antibodies (build up immunity) against the disease. This immunity is long lasting, but wears out over time – this is why boosters are needed. Newborn animals receive antibodies through their mother’s milk which protect them in the early weeks (but bottle-fed young do not, making them more susceptible to infection). However, this can make timing of vaccination difficult, as maternal antibodies will interfere with the development of immunity to vaccines. Pups usually stop suckling by 6 weeks old, so most of the maternal antibodies are exhausted by 8-10 weeks. Correct vaccination protocols vary with the vaccine used, the prevalence of infection in the local area, and the history of the bitch and kennels. Your best advice will be from the vet. Vaccination aims to prevent distemper, leptospirosis, infectious hepatitis, parainfluenza virus and parvovirus.
Usually, pups need a course of 2 injections, 2-4 weeks apart, starting from 8-10 weeks old, but this does vary. They will need to be kept away from unvaccinated dogs and places where unvaccinated dogs might have been eg pavements and parks, until 1-2 weeks after their last injection.
Talk to your vet about vaccinations as soon as, if not before, you first get your pup or new dog.

WORMING - Pups can carry roundworms acquired from their mothers. As well as causing ill health in the pup, they can occasionally infect children. Puppies can be wormed from 2 weeks old and should be wormed regularly thereafter. Your vet can advise you on a suitable worming regime.

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