CHOOSING A RABBIT
Baby rabbits grow up very quickly. They are sexually mature and start to breed when they are between 16 and 24 weeks old, and by this time the cute little baby rabbit you bought originally may weigh as much as 4kg, and a year old buck (male) of the larger breeds will be as heavy as 8kg. This is a strong, heavy rabbit for anyone to handle, let alone a young child.
Smaller breeds like the Netherland Dwarf are less than 1.5kg when fully grown, so are a better size for children. If you have to select a baby rabbit of unknown parentage from a pet shop, beware of white ones with long ears as they are likely to be from stock bred for large size and meat production. Small pricked-up ears suggest the ancestors were dwarf breeds.
Rabbits are gregarious – they like company. But be careful when keeping more than one rabbit together – one of each sex means overproduction of baby rabbits, and two bucks will fight. So the choice is two does (females), neutered doe and neutered buck, or two neutered bucks. Some people will keep a rabbit and a guinea pig together but this can result in bullying. Two animals will mean more work, so only get a pair if you are willing to spend the extra time looking after them both – one well-looked after rabbit is better than two who are given less attention.
Rabbits can live for 8-10 years, so buying one for a child can mean the rabbit is still present when the child has grown up and left home. They do take time and effort to look after properly, so buying a rabbit is as much of a commitment as a cat or dog.

HOUSING
Rabbits need a well-built hutch – at least 5 feet by 2 feet floor space and high enough to allow the rabbit to sit upright with ears erect (about 2 feet). More space is always better. A run which allows the rabbit to spend part of the day exercising and grazing is also necessary – these should be as large as possible. Such a run should have a wire floor if on grass so there is no opportunity to burrow beneath the run and escape.
A rabbit hutch is usually kept outdoors, so it must be built to keep warm and dry in winter and cool in summer. Many of the mass-produced ones are made from flimsy timber, with a roof that overhangs by only a centimetre or so, allowing rain to blow in easily through the wire front. This type of hutch can be improved by placing it beneath a lean-to so that there is double protection from rain and snow. Felting the outside of the walls and beneath the base of the hutch (where it cannot be nibbled) adds insulation and waterproofing. Do not be tempted to cover the front of the hutch completely in bad weather – this produces a damp atmosphere inside the hutch which can be bad for your rabbit’s health. The hutch should be kept out of direct sunlight and away from draughts (many are on legs to help stop damp and keep vermin out).
The hutch should have an indoor sleeping compartment, and if this is furnished with a smaller sleeping box with plenty of bedding, the rabbit can keep itself warm on the coldest of nights.
Straw or shredded paper should be used for bedding in the sleeping area, and the outer run can have wood shavings to absorb any urine or droppings. Rabbits produce a considerable quantity of droppings, usually in one corner of the hutch, and regular cleaning is essential.
Another idea for housing more than one rabbit is a permanent outdoor enclosure with a shelter, allowing them to exercise when they want.

HOUSE RABBITS
Many rabbits are kept in the house now, as they are easily litter trained. They have a cage in the house and get to exercise around the house and garden (they can be trained to use cat flaps). Litter training is achieved by repeatedly putting them in the tray, along with some droppings. Only wood or paper litter must be used. Beware of electrical cabling in the house as this can get chewed.

FEEDING
The most natural, and best, diet for rabbits is grass and hay (NOT cut grass from the lawnmower). This can be supplemented with a commercial rabbit food obtainable from most pet shops. The best feeds are rabbit pellets as these avoid the selective feeding which can sometimes be found with the muesli type mixes. They should have good hay at all times, preferably from a rack so that it remains sweet and fresh. Green food and vegetables can be fed, but in the same amounts every day – unusually large quantities of green food can cause serious digestive upsets. Fresh, clean water from a drinking bottle must always be available. Like any animal, rabbits can get fat if overfed, so do not feed too many of the widely available rabbit treats – they can get all their nutrients through hay and rabbit feed.

BREEDING
A rabbit’s pregnancy lasts about 32 days, and between 3 and 12 young can be born, hairless and with their eyes closed. The eyes open at around 9 days old, and the young rabbits are weaned at about 6 weeks. Does build a nest for their young using hay, bedding and their own fur. Avoid any disturbances during the first few days after the babies are born as a harassed mother may kill and eat her young. It is wise to remove the buck too, so that he is not disruptive.
To prevent unplanned breeding and to improve the behaviour of both male and female pet rabbits, most vets recommend that bucks should be castrated and does spayed. This not only prevents breeding, but tends to produce a more placid and easily handled rabbit.

HANDLING AND GENERAL CARE
Adult rabbits can be difficult to handle, and are capable of savage kicks with the back legs, each of which has 4 sharp claws. Always support the bodyweight from behind, and it is useful to hold the hind legs to stop the kicks. The scruff of the neck can be used in addition, but always support the rest of the body, as rabbits can severely injure their backs if allowed to twist or struggle. NEVER pick up a rabbit by its ears.
Rabbits love to play, and providing toys and play areas keeps them active and stops boredom. It also allows interaction between you and the rabbit. It is important to handle your rabbit every day so that he is well socialised and easy to examine. A rabbit that is not handled enough is a frightened rabbit, which means that it will struggle and kick when picked up, may cause you or itself injury, and will be unhappy. A poorly socialised rabbit does not make a good pet, and does not encourage children (or adults) to care for it fully.
Grooming is a good way of handling your rabbit in a gentle way, and allows you to examine the rabbit all over. Rabbits hair can get matted, especially if they have been moulting, and particularly around their back end. Regular grooming prevents this.

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